Obviously, any focal length will do in street photography and your creativity is really the only limit to how you perform with them. It is therefore not uncommon to see people hit the street with a 21mm, 28mm or even 75mm lens as their standard focal length. Nevertheless, the 35mm and 50mm focal lengths have traditionally been favorites of street photographers due to their versatility and ability to reproduce a field of view similar to the human vision. Many photographers, especially in reportage, actually do use both focal lengths (or have a zoom that covers both), yet they most often do have a preference for one or the other. Indeed, one is either a 35mm or a 50mm shooter.
So what kind of shooter are you ? Looking to buy your first lens for street photography or having doubts on your own preferences, here are some clues to help you to choose the focal length that will suit best your needs.
The Kiosk – Leica M9 with 35mm Summicron IV at F2.0, 1/250, ISO200
A) Distance to subject.
Unobtrusiveness is often key to street photography. How close can you get to your subject without being detected and therefore alter the course of a scene ? Evidently, the closer you approach, the bigger are the odds to be spotted. In street photography, most pictures are taken with the main subject located in the 1.5 to 3 meters range. This in turn means that the difference between a 35mm and 50mm focal length at these distances corresponds roughly to two steps. In other words, using a 50mm lens, you will have to step back two steps to get the equivalent field of view of a 35mm lens. These two steps don’t seem much, yet they make a whole lot of difference in some situations. Indeed, we all have a sort of comfort zone around us as we walk in the street. This zone varies depending on the situation and location. For example, you’ll face no issue to approach people within a meter in a busy shopping street, yet you’ll definitely have them feel insecure if you near them within 2 meters in a deserted park. In a urban environment, the two extra steps provided by the 50mm lens will often make a big difference. You’ll be able to keep enough distance to your subject so he feels that his comfort zone remains untouched. You’ll either remain unspotted or you subject won’t feel threatened by your shooting. For that reason, I think that a 50mm lens is a good way to start for a beginner in street photography. It allows you to take pictures of people without getting too close and let’s you time to learn how to interact with people.
Taxi break – Leica M9 with 50mm Summicron at F2.0, 1/500, ISO200
B) Composition
Let’s say it straight away, there is not one focal length that is easier to work then the other one in terms of composition. Both can be very easy or very difficult. The 35mm focal being obviously wider, there will be more room to compose with. When viewing street photography pictures, I often feel one of the main issue is not the subject of the picture, yet what comes around it. Unorganized, irrelevant, disproportionate … are the terms that often come to my mind when looking at pictures taken with wide angles. This is often due to the empty space around the point of interest, as if the photographer was obnubilated by action and forgot to look around. Nevertheless, the 35mm focal length is great when you like to include a lot of the environment around your subject in the frame. It is also very handy in cities where streets are narrow (though 28mm is probably even better). The field of view of a 50mm being tighter, there are less elements likely to interfere in your frame. You don’t have to worry as much about secondary elements such as passer-bys, cars, or building walls. This makes it easier in some ways to have to concentrate only on a few critical elements. Yet, looking at it the other way, a 50mm makes it much more difficult to include the key elements in a tighter frame of view. You’ll have to either back off (which is not always possible) or take a different angle, which can be quite challenging. The result can often be cut heads, legs or feet or simply missing on one of the key parts of a scene.
Graffiti Lovers – Leica M9 with 35mm Summicron IV at F2.8,1/500, ISO200
C) Depth of field.
For a given aperture and distance, the shortest the focal length, the largest the depth of field. This is true to all camera systems, yet is especially important with large sensor (or film) cameras. Indeed, at 3 meters, a 50mm lens at F1.4 will have a 30 cm zone of acceptable sharpness while it will be double to 60cm with a 35mm lens at the same aperture. Even at F8.0, the depth of field of 50mm lens will be of 2 meters, while the 35mm will have be in focus for 5 meters. More practically, these numbers have three consequences. First it will be more difficult to get your subjects in focus using a large aperture on 50mm lens since the zone of sharpness will be very thin. Secondly and consecutively, you will lose shutter speed as you close the aperture to achieve a longer depth of field for a given ISO level. This will expose you to blur if speeds go below the 1/125th range. This evidently can be somewhat compensated by a raise of the ISO level, yet it is not always possible to change ISO’s as scenes often unfold very quickly (even more on film cameras for sure). Finally, 50mm shots with subjects situated on several planes will be more difficult to execute since it will be difficult to get a zone of sharpness covering all planes. As an example, if you first plane stands at 3 meters from you and the second one is at 7 meters, only a F16 aperture will get both of them in focus. Imagine the consequences on shutter speeds and image quality (diffraction) at such small aperture. Again, these numbers refer to a full format sensors, so these consequences will be felt to a lesser extend on cameras with smaller sensors and it will be a non issue on compact cameras.
Waitress of Cordoba Street – Leica M9 with 50mm Summicron at F2.0, 1/500, ISO200
D) Distortion
A 35mm lens will induce more distortion then a 50mm lens. Not so much because of the lens intrinsic quality, but because a slight tilt of the camera will results in lines starting to converge. So if you like to take street portraits from very close, remember that a small tilt of the camera might distort your subjects faces, arms and legs. The same also applies for 50mm lenses, yet to a much lesser extend. The two pictures below illustrates this.
Leica M9 with 35mm Summilux Asph at F1.4, 1/2000, ISO200, ND filter
Leica M9 with 50mm Summicron at F2.0, 1/2000, ISO200
E) Price
Fast wide angle lenses are more difficult to design, so in general, 35mm lenses will be more expensive than their 50mm equivalent. This is especially true at very large apertures such as F1.4.
After school in Parana – Leica M9 with 35mm Summicron IV at F8.0, 1/750, ISO200
So 35mm or 50mm ?
As you can see, there are both advantages and disadvantages to the use of these two focals. None of them stands as better then the other one. Ultimately, it will come down to your shooting style preference and your personality, so ask yourself the following kind of question might :
– do you like to get very close to people ?
– do you shoot mainly portraits of people in the street ?
– do your prefer large depth of field to blurred backgrounds ?
– do you live in an environment with narrow streets or a lot of wide open space ?
– or even, are you tall ? (it is my case, so mounting a 50mm means a lot of bending and kneeling down which is not always convenient)
If still undecided, you could evidently carry the two focal lengths along. I don’t recommend it though. Indeed, these focal lengths are close in field of view so it will be easier to make the two steps forward or backwards instead of losing time in a lens swap.
As for myself, I started shooting with the 50mm focal length and slowly started to drift towards the 35mm field of view. During this long travel, I simply find it more versatile for the variety of shots and locations I face. Also, I find it is usually easier to get closer to my subjects then to back off. Unless, as depicted in the picture below, backing off results a safer decision …
Gunner girl – Leica M9 with 50mm Summicron at F2.8, 1/500, ISO1000
100 Comments
“This zone varies depending on the situation and location. For example, you’ll face no issue to approach people within a meter in a busy shopping street, yet you’ll definitely have them feel insecure if you near them within 2 meters in a deserted park.”
I agree, and of course people’s comfort zone is to his own. I personally start with 50-200mm at the long end most of the time. Then change to 85mm, and now using 50mm. I also have 35mm, but I guess I like my 50mm better (in terms of comfort and DOF). Oh yeah, I’m using D90, so it’s not really 50mm POV…
Thanks for the post. I never realize some of the facts like how these 35mm and 50mm have distortion. I can’t really tell the difference :D.
GM, distortion also depends a lot on your shooting style. I am tall so whenever I tilt downwards I’ll get a lot of distortion with my 35mm lens. It happens less with the 50mm since I’ll have to bend or kneel to get a good composition, my camera will therefore stay level most of the times.
Another very interesting article. Thank you.
35mm and 50mm are the only two lenses I use. I’ve been using these for a bit more than 6 months now, and tbh, I’m yet to decide which is my favourite focal length. At night, I favour the 50mm because it’s a stop faster but other than that, has no mega advantage over the 35mm.
What I tend to do, is mount one of the two in the morning (depending on which mood I’m in) and keep it throughout the day (I don’t even take the second one with me). Generally, I use the 50mm for more lazy days and the 35mm for “TODAY I’M GETTING VERY, VERY CLOSE!” days.
If I were to only keep one of the two, I would go for the 35mm because it’s easier to get close than go back.
Good way to describe it Christakis, I always thought of my 60mm lens as my “lazy days” lens.
Thanks a lot, great article, I’m using 28mm and 50mm prime lenses, really has something to do with my modd, or something with what I’m linking to take photos of, very different from day to day. And I love taking photos with narrow depth of field… I rarely use a zoom lens too, but normally I have my two prime lenses with me! :-)
I also found that when I used a lot my 35mm and 60mm lenses. It really depended on the mood. Mood in terms of kind of shots one wants to shoot but also how much one wants to interact with people. And 28mm really needs you to get close to have good shots in my opinion.
Brilliant! I have a 50mm zeiss sonar and a 35mm summarit. The larger aperture of the sonar is the main reason I use it more often…. Saving up for that Summilux :)
Keep on saving, a great lens ! I did test it for a month of so but was not too convinced by the Summilux. So perfect … The Sonnar is an amazing lens too, just a bit soft wide open.
Not soft at all, you’re just have to master focus shift.
Your Sonnar is probably calibrated for f/2.8, so wide open it is focusing about an inch or two in FRONT of whatever you focused on with the rangefinder. Lean forward a inch or so after focusing and you will find the Sonnar is incredibly sharp (at least near center) wide-open.
Excellent article. Thank you for writing it.
Thanks, Yanick! Great article and indeed reminds me of my approach to choosing which one I want to shoot with. I myself started shooting with a 50 range first and I’ve used it quite extensively for an year before I also obtained a 35 mm lens. Nowadays, I find that I use the 50 mostly for portraits and for its low-light performance (f1.2 – quite soft Canon lens with M adaptor). Now I find myself using the 35 quite often because it also enables me to do much more effective hip street photography which the 50 is less successful at.
Hi Konstantin, hip shooting with a 50mm lens is very challenging. But so is it with a 35mm lens … yet I am sure you already know what I think about hip shooting ;) Last resort only …
If you are shooting with a Canon M camera your 35mm lens has a 56mm field of view and the 50 mm FOV is 80mm. A 24mms would give you a 38 mm equivalent. You need smaller lens to match the authors examples.
I’m usually a 50mm shooter myself, but that’s because I’m also a low light shooter and 50mm lenses are usually much faster than any other focal length.
I’ve also found that certain cities work better with certain lenses. For example, when I go to New York City, I generally use a longer lens (sometimes as high as a 105mm) because that’s what’s needed to isolate my subject from the rest of the hustle and bustle. When I go to Boston, though, I prefer wider lenses to capture the isolation of people on the streets there.
It’s all about what you’re after.
That’s interesting because many street photographers in NYC actually use wide angles such as 28mm and 35mm. Indeed, if you want to include some of the environment and given the high rises, a long lens does not allow you to do so. It doesn’t obviously mean that NYC cannot be shot with a long lens yet it will be less evident you are in NYC unless you frame from far away. But does it really matter is the subject is good ? ;)
Great post, though you should mention that in APS-C (DX format) cameras, the Crop factor is around 1.5, turning my 35mm to a 50mm lens.
You are right, it might have been confusing to some of the APS-C users. Thanks for pointing that out.
Excellent point, thank you!
In regards to Sebastian’s point, what lens would someone with a APS-C format camera use to achieve similar results to that of a 35mm lens on a full-frame camera, like the one you use on your M9? Should I go down to a 24mm f/1.4? I have a Canon Rebel and shoot people on the streets of NYC (context is very important for this last phrase, isn’t it?), where I live. I like to get close to people and want to get more background than I get with my current 50mm lens, but I want that shallow depth of field. Thank you for any advice you can give me. . . I’m so confused!
I think I’ve hunted down my answer. So in any case anyone else wants to know, you can use this ratio: divide the focal length you’d use on a full-frame camera by the crop factor of YOUR camera. So, on an APS-C camera, you’d divide 35 (mm) by 1.6. The result is 21-something – so I guess a 24mm would probably do. This is my conclusion (there could be errors in it, obv.). Sorry for the double-posting. Yanick, I am a huge fan of your site/your photographs.
Hi Lisa,
Yes, you hunted down the answer, yet a 21mm F1.4 (that is only produced by Leica) or a 24mm F1.4 on a APS-C camera won’t give you the same depth of field as a 35mm F1.4 on full frame. It will be much larger for a given field of view. Nevertheless, it depends how much depth of field you need though and how close you get to your subjects as it also impact depth of field. I hope I did not get you confused. Best way is to go to a local vendor and try a 24mm F1.4 on your Rebel. Put a subject at 3 feet and see if this is depth of field is enough for you.
Cheers, Yanick
Thanks, Yanick. I think I will try renting 35mm and 24mm lenses and see how they work. I wish you taught workshops!
Excellent writing!
Iprefer the 50mm. It has been with me for quite a wile as my only lens and much suits my style of shooting. It lets me pick up the most meaningful details of the scene without being too close to the people I portrait, thus avoiding excessive intrusion and consequent disturbancy from my part…
Thanks Yanick, I find the 35mm more useful as its field of view is about the same as that of our eyes, it has more depth of field, and allows a little more working room.
I was told between other things that if you want to street photography you have to use only one lense. Usually is 35mm lense. The idea is, when you use only one focal length you train your “eye” and you will now how your picture will be before you pick up your camera. It doesnt matter how far or close you are, if you dont get the picture it just don’t meant to be. I use 35mm lense and shoot at f11. Avoid telephoto and do not isolate your subject. Learn how to composite and take advantage of all the elements around your subject of interest.
Hi Dimitris, it is a valid point of view nevertheless street photography is a vast enough domain to all for different styles. Shooting at F1.4 and avoiding isolating subjects brings a different dimension to pictures, it is more abstract, maybe more eerie. Doesn’t mean that background is not taken into account, it also count in the composition. Nothing wrong with that, to all different tastes ! Cheers, Yanick
I am a beginner in street photography,so your articles are very useful to me.THANKS for the effort to share your skills and experience with all of us.Your generosity is a inspiration for me and I keep reading and learning from your site.Thanks,man.
Thanks Marius, glad you enjoy it!
Thank you! Your article was very helpfull for me. I think i would get a 50mm. Maybe in a few years a new Summilux. :) I use it not just for street, more as an allround Lens. but we will see.
Hi Florian, in the end both focal work pretty well for street photography. Use one for a year, than go for the other one. You then can decide which you like most based on extensive use. Cheers, Yanick
Great article. I wanted to point out something about depth of field. What you say is true. If you shoot a 35mm and 50mm lens from the same spot at the same aperture, the 50mm will have less depth of field than the 35mm. However, if you take a couple of steps forward with the 35mm (or back with the 50mm) and frame the subjects the same, the depth of field will be the same, so it may not make much difference in a real shooting situation.
Are you aware that the guy in the first photo is probably Raul Gonzalez Blanco? This guy is one of the greatest soccer players in the history of Spains Football.
Hi Dean,
LOL, there is some resemblance indeed, but that is not him. I would doubt very much that he'd be able to walk anonymously in a street of Argentina. Everybody would recognize him and he'd be surrounded by a crowd.
Cheers, Yanick
Great post. I was wondering which would be more suitable for my Nikon D3100, if I require more full body shots and blurred backgrounds. 50mm 1.8G vs 35mm 1.8G.. Would appreciate your suggestion!
A longer lens is always better (at constant aperture) for blurred background so you’ll achieve it better with the 50mm lens. Note nevertheless that your D3100 has a 1.5 crop factor so it is really a 75mm field of view, not at 50mm. Cheers, Yanick
It is difficult to decide which is more useful. I do sometimes struggle with the 50mm to get back far enough when I need to. At least with the 35mm you can always step closer…
Exactly, when in doubt, better go with the 35mm, you can always get closer !
Awesome post! I have a "nooby" question.
The 35mm on a ASP-C camera (like my D5000, for example) is the equivalent of a 50mm lens, right? So the distortion you're talking about on the 35mm wouldn't apply?
Hi Izzie, actually though the sensor "crops" the field of view to a 50mm full frame equivalent, the optical characteristics of the 35mm lens stay. Therefore the distortion will still be there.
Absolutely brilliant blog…I was wandering confused in the internet to decide upon 35mm / 50mm to go for my Paris trip. I believe i would be good enough with Nikon 50mm AF 1.8D to start with cheaply. Thanks a ton.
Paris is the city of 50mm …. can’t go wrong with it there. Enjoy your trip !
Great article. I have switched to digital but oh do I miss my Leica! Anyway, the only thing I might add is that with the 50 I often find myself wandering into traffic to get the composition I want. Luckily, I have not been hit yet! So, say from the sidewalk shooting someone against a wall, either lens might work, but the 50 might be dangerous if you are like me and concentrate on the shot more than your own safety.
What a bad ending … being ran over because of a 50mm …. ;) but I know what you mean, 35mm is so much easier in these situations.
I have 50mm 1.8. Thinking to buy 50mm 1,4. what advantage does 50mm 1.4 have 1.8?
Sincerely, not much. The 1.4 is probably bigger and more expensive. Do yo really need an extra 1/2 stop of light ?
Nice article Yani! Made me think again about trying the 50 again. However, I am so used to the 35 and since I am not crazy about bokeh in my street images, and since I like to use zone focus, the 35 seems to suit my style perfectly.
I really enjoyed the text, mainly because I'm getting ready to purchase one of the two lenses. Actually I would have both, but as I can not, I'll opt for a 50 mm because I want to keep a small distance to the target object, and soft blur. Thank you.
This is such a great blog! It's surprisingly hard to find really practical advice in photography that can be easily translated from theory into practice. I love that you include examples as well to demonstrate the difference from a 35mm lens (which I am contemplating) and a 50mm (which I already own). This has really helped me make up my mind.
Thanks so much, I will definitely be back.
Theo xXx
Kudos Yanidel. I read a ton about street photography before going for the 35mm on DX frame (= 50mm) and this article was one of the most helpful. Just picked one up and can't wait to get a good chance to test it out. First thing I've noticed is how useful 50mm being practically eye view could be out on the street and the speed of a prime lens in helping to catch the moment and not lose your shot.
I would say for a more nervous or complete beginner photographer they may even consider a 75mm lens (50mm DX) to give them even more room till they become more comfortable.
Hi! thanks for your amazing article! i’ve been reading a lot about 35 and 50mm lenses and finally chose the 35mm lens. But i’m writing because when doing my research I came accross your article and couldn’t believe my eyes when I realized some of your pictures were taken in my home town, Rosario, Argentina….it’s a small world! thanks again for the review, very helpful :)
Hola Sabrina,
Glad it helped you. Rosario is amazing and so is life here !
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Hi, this is great article! I still haven’t decided to buy 50mm or 35mm. My other purposes beside street photography is for shooting video with blur background, what do you think I should buy the 50mm or 35mm? I have sony nex 5r.
Thank you so much for your help. I really appreciate that!
Hi Ronny. I use a Sony NEX-6. Because of the 1.5x crop factor, the 35mm nex lens is actually equivalent to 50mm on a full frame camera.
If you want the equivalent 35mm on a NEX, you would have to buy the Carl Zeiss 24mm lens which is $1,000.
I purchased the 35mm for my nex, but after a week taking photos with it, I think I would prefer the 24mm length. I found myself always running out of room trying to back up using the 35mm. But $1,000 is just a lot of money for the 24mm for me. If only Sony would make a cheaper, non-Carl Zeiss 24mm.
Excellent article! Very helpful. Thank you. I just started shooting at 50mm and I really like the narrow depth of field and the “flatness” produced in the images. I think you are correct that a wider field of view is more challenging for a beginner, because there are more elements in a wider scene to arrange and frame. I think one day I may develop the skill and comfort to do this but for now I’m sticking with the 50 – especially because as you point out it’s easier to get a quality 50 for relatively cheap.
Well explained, good for beginer easy to shot with the nice blur background.
Mate – you r a star!! Thanks lot for posting this article.
I’ve been hunting for days trying to find the answer of this question (AF-S 50mm 1.8g or 35mm for my Nikon D3200) but you have made easier by showing same pictures, from same distance with difference lenses. I’m still in a learning mode and love to take pictures of people/events/weddings/groups as well as sceneries.
If I put my understanding in simple words, to get the same effect from 35 mm lens photographer will need to move a little closer to the subject (and vice versa in 50mm).
So my question is, will picture still be as sharp as 50mm? Also when you blow up the picture for a frame size will that picture be as sharp? And for the night scenes/low light will 35mm be as good as 50mm?
I am going on Euro trip with my wife soon and I wish to capture her/our pics (portraits) as well as pictures with good sceneries behind and want to blow up those pics in frames, so quite to keen to get a good prime lens.
I am so sorry for all these silly and confusing questions, I am new DSLR owner and still in a learning mode. I truly appreciate your help for the beginners like me.
Much appreciated.
Hi Yanick,
Thank you for sharing this article. I used to be 75mm (50mm F/1.8G on my Nikon D7000) shooter before I have my hand on my wife OMD-EM5 with its 12-50mm last June. I became lazy and timid. Even my style of shooting change. Your article gives me a bit of extra push to bring out my Nikon D7000 and it’s 50mm for a weekly walk again.
Thank you and mya you have a great day.
John Ragai
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I didn’t like the 35mm at first… but I got used to it, and it is more versatile on the street, mainly for its larger depth of field. I can hit up architecture, landscape, candids, all with one lens, the 50mm doesn’t really do that, and has me wanting for a 24mm or 100mm. Where as the 35mm, I can put on the 85mm. And with 24mp cameras, you can always crop. I find it’s much harder to back up sometimes than it is to move closer. 35mm is also not so wide where it distorts, like a 24mm or 20mm… If I really want a portrait, I’ll pop on the 85mm.
With a 35, I can have my aperture pretty much set already and just throw the camera up and get them in focus, or shoot off the hip, much harder on a 50mm.
If you had ONLY one lens at never swapped and want to be able to do a few decent streets, plus take photos of people, I think the 50mm is better, but for a 2 lens (just throw one in your pocket) having the 35mm will get you most of the shots you want walking around.
Carrying more than 2 lenses IMO is a pain. having 35/85 hits up the most possible shots. This is probably why wedding photographers love that combo.
The 50mm is definitely easier to use…and more what you see. Probably gets more initial “keeper” shots, however learning to use the others will ultimately get you better shots.
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Nice article.let me say. I am having Nikon D3300. If I use a 50 mm on my DX body , can I take full body portraits.
I was wondering which would be more suitable for my Nikon D5200, if I require more full body shots and blurred backgrounds. 50mm 1.8G vs 35mm 1.8G. Would appreciate your suggestion!
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I have a Canon 7D, not a FF. I amostly shoot family sessions… 50mm or 35mm?The 35mm sounds like a fun lens but is it suitable for not a full frame camera?
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